With the events of the last few weeks, and a busy schedule, (well, not really, busy)I haven't been up to writing here. I have prepared a few meals for posting, and will do so in the next few days, so check back soon. That said, this is one dish I had in the bag, and under the circumstance in the gulf coast, felt it appropriate to bring out first.

When I first started cooking professionally, I had the pleasure and honor of working with two chefs in Denver who had cut their teeth on the New Orleans restaurant scene. Andy and Bruce both had worked for Susan Spicer at Bayona, Andy having also worked at Mr. B's Bistro, among other places. Our love of the south, being displaced in Denver, brought us together, and I wouldn't be the chef I am today without that experience.

One of the first dishes they taught me from their menu was a blackened catfish, fancied up with an avocado lime beurre blanc. We made the blackening spice from scratch, me learning that the secret isn't the oft executed charing and burning of the meat, rather the caramelization of the spice, led by onion powder as the main ingredient, followed by paprika, garlic powder, white and cayenne pepper, and dried thyme. From there, it can vary by cook. Just as an onion will get sweet and golden, then dark as it cooks, so will its powder.Anyway, one evening I was craving some of that comfort food, and flavor. A venture earlier in the week to the farmers market I scored the beautiful okra, which I'm sure set things in motion. A trip to the market for some catfish fillets, and well, grits are always a staple in this homes cupboard. Regarding grits, I've cooked the old-fashioned stone ground grits from scratch, and they're enjoyable, but for dishes such as this, instant hominy grits are the key. If you're not familiar with hominy, it's the white center of a corn kernel. Therefore, these grits are the white variety, not yellow, as more associated in this kitchen with polenta.

Fittingly, the okra was the first to begin work on. Add half a medium sweet onion sliced thin, a few garlic cloves chopped up, a couple of bay leaves, a teaspoon of crushed red pepper into a dutch oven with some olive oil, on medium heat, and sweat the onion and garlic. I prefer to slice the okra slightly at angle into 2 or 3 pieces each, depending on the size of the okra, but if you find small, tender okra, then there would be no need to slice it. Add the okra to the dish, and stir to mix and coat the okra with the onion mixture. To that add a large can of whole, peeled tomato, breaking up the tomato in to chunks, don't worry about size, as the dish simmers, the tomato will soften and breakdown more. Once the dish comes to a simmer, keep the heat just a low simmer, stirring occasionally. Once the okra is tender, season with salt and pepper.

For the grits, the key is to properly measure the grits and water. For really the best creamy grits you've ever had, substitute whole cream for the water. You won't need to use any cheese, and you'll never look back. For the standard water based grits, I use 1/3 dried grits to 1 cup water. A pinch of salt and pat of butter is added to the water. Bring the water to a boil, slowly stir in the grits, lower the temperature, stirring regularly. I sometimes will simply use nutritional yeast in the grits instead of cheese, but for this dish, half a cup or so of grated cheese, cheddar, white cheddar, or what ever you're feeling like stirred in at the end. Adjust the seasoning with salt and white pepper, fresh ground white pepper if possible. (I keep two grinders in the kitchen, one with black pepper corns, one with white.) You can turn off the heat, cover, and the grits will keep for the few minutes needed to cook the catfish.

Obviously any fish can be substituted for this dish, and it was most made famous by Paul Prudhomme using redfish. I haven't been successful lately in my pursuit of redfish here in the Bay area, but if you are, or want to substitute some other white fish, the option is yours. However catfish is economical, and its texture lends itself to this dish. Speaking of Prudhomme, I cheat and use his ready made spice mix. I can not really beat it, it's not too salty like many blackening spices on the market (Tony Chachere's comes to mind). The other reason is onion and garlic powder is rarely available at the standard market. Either way you go, the preparation will be the same. I only coat one side of the fish, the "rounded" side, that is, the side that would have been at the bone, versus the "flat" side, or the skin side. Preheat the skillet (a heavy bottomed skillet, be it cast iron or not) on high, but just as you add the fish, you'll lower the heat to medium. I use whole butter to blacken with, it will smoke some, if it smokes too much when you add the butter or oil, the pan is TOO HOT, in which case you want to lower the temp some, before adding the fish. Remember, we are trying to caramelize the seasons, not char the fish. Depending on thickness, 4-5 minutes on the seasoned side, until you get a nice dark color, but again, not burnt. Flip the fish over, and cook another 3-4 minutes, check for doneness, and cook a few minutes if the fish doesn't want to flake or isn't a translucent white in the center.

For me, I like to mix everything up, so to plate up, I simply put the grits down in the center, flank that with some of the stewed okra, and plop the catfish on top (yes, I said plop). Some may want a little Tabasco on the side, and to drink, an ice cold beer would be fitting, but if wine was your desire, a California or Oregon Reisling would work well. Enjoy!